By Benoit Collin
Last updated: 2026-04-02
Your journey begins at Tivat Airport (TIV). I prefer Tivat over Podgorica because you are essentially dropped into the heart of the Boka Bay the moment you step off the plane. From the airport, it’s a quick 20-minute drive through the Vrmac Tunnel to reach Kotor.
Check into your accommodation, and head to Kotor Old Town. Kotor is a UNESCO World Heritage site and a Venetian masterpiece. Once you step through its ancient gates, you enter a labyrinth of cobbled lanes where you’ll discover medieval churches, aristocratic palaces with green shutters, and small courtyards. Highlights include the St Tryphon Cathedral, the Maritime Museum as well as the local Farmer's Market.
For one of the most amazing view of the bay, lace up your shoes and climb to the top of the fortress of St. John (San Giovanni) high above the town (entrance fee | €15). This is the classic Kotor experience: a hike up 1,350+ stone steps, through old gates and ramparts that zigzag up the mountainside. It’s a workout for the legs, but the views from up there are absolutely worth it. Expect a 2-3 hours round trip depending on stops and heat.
One piece of advice: don’t do this hike in the middle of the day at peak summer unless you’re ready to suffer. There’s almost no shade on the trail, and you’ll reach the top absolutely drenched. If you still go for it, bring at least 2 liters of water with you.
1) The Old Town is pedestrian-only, so you’ll need to park outside the gates which can be tricky in peak season. I’d recommend staying in Dobrota rather than inside the Old Town: you’ll find more places with dedicated parking, and it’s only a 15–20 minute walk away along the beautiful seaside promenade (instead of the main road).
2) Kotor is a very popular cruise ship stop and the sheer number of cruise ship passengers can make the narrow alleys of the Old Town feel claustrophobic between 10:00 AM and 4:00 PM. For a much more enjoyable experience, visit early in the morning or late afternoon when they're back on the ship.
3) There is an alternative path to the official trail leading to the fortress called the "Ladder of Kotor". This is an old shepherd’s path that switchbacks up the mountain outside the city walls. You will find a small window in the fortress wall to climb through and join the official path halfway up, essentially bypassing the entrance fee. Just be aware that this requires a bit of physical agility to climb through the window into the fortress.
Start your second day on the water. This boat tour departs from the Kotor marina and takes you past Mamula island (a former prison turned into a luxury hotel), old submarine tunnels (relics of the Yugoslav navy) and out to the Blue Cave. On the way back, you’ll stop at the famous Our Lady of the Rocks island. This is a man-made island created over 500 years ago by locals sinking old ships and rocks, with a small church on top of it.
A quick reality check: the Blue Cave gets marketed as THE must-see spot in the bay. Yes, the water really is that blue. But in July and August, it often turns into a parking lot for boats, with a heavy petrol smell, and swimming inside is not always possible for safety reasons. The tours are still 100% worth it for the bay scenery and swim stops, just keep your expectations realistic about the Blue Cave itself.
You’ll run into plenty of pushy sellers by the Kotor marina trying to get you on a boat tour. A lot of them cram in big groups, which usually means a pretty “meh” experience. Your best move is to choose a smaller operator that cap guest numbers.
Also, don’t overthink the route: every tour follows the same loop because it hits the bay’s main highlights:
Kotor departure→ Mamula island → Blue cave → Old submarine tunnel → Our Lady of the Rocks island → back to Kotor.
So the itinerary isn’t what should drive your choice. Here’s what actually matters:
1) A legitimate operator. Licensed operators usually depart from Park Slobode. If someone is loading guests from random spots along the promenade, there’s a chance they’re unlicensed, which means questionable insurance, safety standards, and equipment. They’re often cheaper for a reason.
2) Group size. Around 8 people (10 max) is ideal and ensures a comfortable tour for every passenger. Any more and you’re packed in shoulder-to-shoulder. Private hire is always an option too.
3) Boat condition and safety gear. Look for a boat that’s clearly well-maintained and clean with life jackets for everyone and proper equipment onboard. This is a non-negotiable.
4) Skipper quality and driving style. A nice skipper who drives carefully makes half of the experience (especially on the open sea near the Blue cave where waves are higher). I always hear stories of skippers going to the sea knowing very well the conditions are not great and their guests will have a rough time on the boat. The best skippers won’t force it in bad conditions, they’ll cancel and refund rather than give you a miserable ride.
5) English-speaking skipper. Makes a huge difference if you want context, explanations, and a more personal experience.
6) Swim stops + snorkel gear. Great tours include swimming stops near the Blue cave. You’re not always allowed to swim inside the Blue Cave for safety reasons (due to strong waves or too many boats inside), but the water just outside is just as good for swimming and snorkeling.
I’ve tested multiple tours to understand all this and that's how I decided to offer this tour on Wandr because it meets all of those criteria.
Also, a recent 2026 update: starting March 2026, new regulation limits the speed of all speedboats in the Bay of Kotor (from 20–25 knots previously to 16–18 knots), making it impossible to complete the full itinerary in 3 hours as it was the case in previous years. Any operator still advertising this itinerary in 3 hours will inevitably have to skip stops or rush through them and simply will not be able to deliver what they promise. This is the reason this boat tour is now 4-hour long.
After your boat tour, drive 20 minutes along the coastal road to Perast. This is one of my favourite village in the bay and it makes you feel like you're in Italy. Perast is pedestrian-only and you’ll have to park in the large lots at either end of the town. The village is tiny and you can walk all the streets in under one hour but I strongly suggest you to slow down here, seat by the waterfront, go for a swim and wait for the sunset. It is the closest thing to magic you’ll find in Montenegro!
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1) Perast is one of the bay’s most popular stops, which comes with two big downsides: parking and crowds. Around midday, finding a space is a nightmare and the village feels packed. Instead, go in the early evening once the day-trippers have left and it’s calm again. That’s the perfect time to grab a waterfront table for dinner and watch the sunset.
2) If you don’t want to commit to a 3-hour bay cruise but still want to see Our Lady of the Rocks, you can hop on a taxi boat from Perast. It’s a quick 5-minute ride and costs around €10 return.
3) Along the coastal road near Perast, you’ll pass plenty of oyster and mussel farms. It’s worth stopping to taste fresh seafood straight from the bay.
The route: Kotor -> Lovcen National Park & Njegos Mausoleum -> Cetinje -> Budva
Today is the day you test your nerves. The P1 road from Kotor to Lovcen (also called "Serpentine road") is legendary, featuring 25 numbered hairpin bends that climb from sea level to over 1,000 meters. I recommend leaving Kotor before 9:00 AM. This allows you to beat the large tour buses that struggle to navigate the hairpins and will make you sweat.
At the top, you’ll reach the Njegoš Mausoleum. You have to climb 461 steps to reach the summit of Jezerski Vrh, but on a clear day, you can see across the entire country (entrance fee | 8€ on top of the 3€ to enter the Lovćen National Park).
Each national park charges a daily entry fee of around €3–€5 per person. But you can also buy an annual pass for €13 that gives you unlimited access to all national parks in the country, available at the ticket offices. Lovćen National Park is the perfect moment to get it, since this itinerary also includes two more parks. Just make sure you have your ID with you to purchase the pass.
From Lovcen, descend into Cetinje, the old royal capital. It’s a town of grand embassies and museums that feels much more "European" than the Venetian coast. If you only have an hour, visit the King Nikola Museum to get a sense of how this tiny nation once stood up to the Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian empires. Other highlights include the Billiard Palace and the History & Art Museum.
After exploring, drive about 45 minutes down to Budva for the night.
If you don’t feel like tackling the Serpentine Road by car, the cable car is a great alternative to still get those epic bay views. In about 10–15 minutes, it takes you up to the upper station in Kuk at 1,348m. At the top you’ll find a couple of bars and restaurants, plus a mountain coaster. A round-trip adult ticket is €23 (and the coaster costs an extra €8).
Just note: the cable car typically runs from April to early November and can shut on windy days. From the upper station, you can take a taxi onward to the Njegoš Mausoleum and Cetinje.
On paper, Budva is the “easy beach town” part of the trip. In practice, it’s also where Montenegro can feel most “resort-y” and crowded and I find it a bit too developed for my taste. However, the Old Town is still worth a visit. It's relatively compact when compared to the old town in Kotor but still very photogenic.
For a swim, follow the cliffside path for about 5 minutes past the famous Ballerina statue to Mogren Beach. The water is crystal clear and the cliffs behind it are stunning. I'd suggest visiting early in the morning because by midday in peak summer, there isn't a square inch of sand left.
In the afternoon, jump on a boat and explore the coastline around Budva. It’s what really makes Budva worth your time and it's the best way to escape the crowds. The best trips take you to a bay called the “Blue Lagoon,” stop at sea caves for swimming and snorkeling, and include time on the more remote beaches of Sveti Nikola island. The water at these spots is unreal, crystal clear and intensely blue.
The two tours below are run by great captains who know the coast like the back of their hands and will bring you to the most insane spots near Budva (including the ones mentioned above).
If beaches and boat days aren’t your vibe and you’re craving something with more adrenaline, go canyoning in Drenovštica Canyon (only about a 15-minute drive from Budva). You’ll jump, swim, and rappel your way through rocky gorges and waterfalls. It’s seriously thrilling! Otherwise, paragliding is another exciting activity offering the best views of the Budva riviera.
Day 5 is all about the most photographed spot in Montenegro: Sveti Stefan. This 15th-century fortified village turned luxury resort is a visual masterpiece. For years, the island was managed by Aman Resorts but since 2021, there has been a legal dispute between the resort and the government, which means the island has been intermittently closed to guests. This means you can't walk onto the island but the beaches surrounding the bridge entrance are now open to the public for free.
I highly recommend walking the coastal path from Sveti Stefan to the village of Pržno. It leads you through Miločer Park, a former royal estate shaded by ancient Lebanese cedars and olive trees. You can also do a bit of beach-hopping on the way, with stops at Miločer beach and Queen's beach.
To end the day, drive up the hill to St. Sava Church. Most people take their photos of Sveti Stefan from the roadside viewpoint on the main highway, but if you go up to the church, you get an elevated, panoramic view of the entire Budva Riviera as the sun dips into the Adriatic. It is, in my opinion, one of the best sunset spot on the coast.
Head out early for Virpazar, the gateway to Lake Skadar. This is a dramatic shift from the coast. You’re leaving the salt water for the largest freshwater lake in the Balkans.
Virpazar is a small fishing village best known as the main departure point for boat tours on the lake. And honestly, a boat trip is the only way to truly experience Lake Skadar. You’ll glide through narrow channels lined with white water lilies and water chestnuts, and spot countless bird species (and if you’re lucky, even Dalmatian pelicans).
That said, you will be swarmed by sellers trying to get you on a boat tour as soon as you arrive, which can feel a bit tourist-trappy. Just like in the Bay of Kotor, skip the cheap, crowded boats and choose a smaller operator instead. It’s not only more comfortable and personal, smaller boats can also access narrow channels that bigger ones simply can’t reach.
I’ve joined more than 10 boat trips on the lake over the years, and I can confidently say the following tours offer the best experience (small group or private tours, knowledgeable guides and captains and itineraries covering the most beautiful parts of the lake).
After the tour, a perfect way to wind down is to stop at a local winery for a tasting. This region is the home of Vranac, a bold red grape whose name translates to “Black Stallion.” You’ll find plenty of family-run wineries where you can sample wines in traditional stone cellars or cosy backyards, usually paired with local meats and cheeses.
I had such a great experience at this winery. What was meant to be a quick one-hour tasting turned into three hours chatting with the owners over amazing wines and homemade food. That’s Montenegrin hospitality at its best!
1) Lake Skadar National Park charges an official €5 per-person day ticket, which you’ll need if you’re joining a boat tour. It’s usually not included in the tour price, so you’ll have to buy it separately at the ticket office in central Virpazar by the main bridge. This is where your annual pass comes in handy if you picked one up earlier.
2) Virpazar is tiny and parking is… not great. From around midday, finding a spot can be tough, so try to arrive early. Also, a heads-up: as you drive in, someone will likely stop you asking if you want a boat ride. If you say no, they often direct you into the village where parking is nearly impossible. If you say yes, they’ll point you to the large car park in the opposite direction. It’s a frustrating old trick that has been going on for years. Parking is free, and it shouldn’t pressure you into booking any tour.
3) If birdwatching is your thing, go very early in the morning at sunrise. The lake is calm, there’s little to no boat traffic, and birds are actively feeding. This is your best chance to see pelicans up close. This tour offers an amazing experience.
Today is a longest driving day of this itinerary as you head north to Žabljak, but the scenery makes it worth every minute!
Leave Virpazar early in the morning. If you’re comfortable with narrow roads, take the sinuous road that hugs the edge of Lake Skadar to reach the Pavlova Strana viewpoint. This is the "horseshoe bend" of Montenegro, where the Crnojević River loops around a mountain. Otherwise, stick to the main highway toward Podgorica.
Once you reach Žabljak, located in the heart of the Durmitor National Park, you’ll feel the air change. You are now at 1,450 meters elevation. The town has the widest selection of accommodation and restaurants in the area, making it an ideal base for day trips into the national park.
Head straight to the Black Lake (Crno Jezero), the jewel of the Durmitor and the most famous of the 18 glacial lakes scattered throughout the park. The 3.5km circular trail around the lake is easy and flat, which makes it a gentle “welcome to Durmitor” hike.
1) Entry to the national park is €5 per person per day, and parking near the Black Lake costs an additional €3/hour. Again, this is where your annual pass comes in handy if you picked one up earlier. From the parking area/entrance kiosk, there is a 700-meter (approx. 10-minute) walk to reach the lake.
2) While the water is cold, you can swim in the lake in summer. Alternatively, you can rent a boat on the lake for ~€10 / hour.
There is no shortage of ways to spend days in the Durmitor National Park and you’ll probably end up wishing you’d planned 4 or 5 days here. Below are a couple of ideas for how to spend the next two days, depending on what you’re into:
Option 1: Hike to the summit of Bobotov Kuk
Bobotov Kuk is the highest peak in Montenegro (2,523m) and the ascent includes exposed/secured sections. It’s typically only doable from May/June through September as, earlier in the season, snow near the top can make it dangerously risky. This isn’t a casual walk: expect a 6–8 hour round trip with technical parts where you’ll use wire ropes. Don’t attempt it without proper hiking boots and plenty of water. The most common starting point is the Sedlo mountain pass.
Option 2: Tara Bridge and rafting on Tara river
The Tara Canyon is one of the deepest in Europe, and the iconic crossing is the Đurđevića Tara Bridge: 365m long, with the road sitting roughly 170+ meters above the river. You can walk across it or go for a zipline straight over the canyon. If you want even more adrenaline, join a rafting or packrafting trip on the Tara River, with many departures starting near the bridge. In season, operators offer both day trips and multi-day programs and take care of all the gear and logistics.
In peak summer, this stretch of the river is generally beginner-friendly because water levels drop and the rapids are less intense. If you’re after something wilder, you’ll want to head further northwest toward the Bosnia border for stronger rapids. This operator uses top-quality equipment, and their guides are fully licensed professionals (which is not always the case for all operators), so you’re in very good hands.
Option 3: Exploring glacial lakes on mountain bike
Mountain biking in Durmitor is an absolute rush, and because the park is so large, it's the best way to explore it in depth. You ride through pristine forests and quiet valleys, with stops at glacial lakes beyond the famous Black Lake, like Zminje Lake or Jablan Lake. And e-bikes make the steep climbs feel almost effortless!
Option 4: Canyoning across the Nevidio or Grabovica canyon
If you’re an adrenaline junkie, skipping Nevidio Canyon while you’re in the north would be a mistake. This is arguably one of the most unique adventure in the park. You aren't just looking at the canyon, you are in it, clambering over boulders, sliding down natural rock chutes, and jumping into emerald pools. The canyon is usually only passable from July to September. In May and June, the water levels are often too high and dangerous. If you're here early in the season, guides will bring you to the nearby Grabovica Canyon instead, which is just as fun!
Option 5: the Durmitor Ring and Piva Lake
Drive the southern stretch of the Durmitor Ring Road (P14) between Žabljak and Plužine for some of the most dramatic mountain scenery in the country. The road is fully paved, but it’s often narrow and winding, and it’s usually closed in winter (best done from May to October).
You’ll finish with spectacular viewpoints over Piva Lake, an emerald-blue reservoir that looks like nothing else in Montenegro. Cross the bridge into Plužine, then hop on a boat tour of the lake with cave stops and time for a swim.
On your final day, drive south toward the capital, but make a major stop at the Ostrog Monastery. Ostrog is built into a vertical cliff face and is the most sacred Orthodox site in the country. Dress modestly (shoulders and knees covered) or you won't be let in. You can park at the Lower Monastery and hike 45 minutes up through the woods, or try to snag a spot in the upper lot, which is only a 10-minute walk.
Finally, make your way to Podgorica. It’s rarely the “highlight city” of a Montenegro trip, but you might find the brutalist architecture interesting and the Cathedral of the Resurrection of Christ is genuinely impressive.
If you’re up for one last swim, check out the “Niagara Falls” on the Cijevna River. It's a local favorite right next to a restaurant and an easy, low-stress way to wrap up a packed 10-day trip before flying home from Podgorica Airport.
Montenegro might frustrate you sometimes. The traffic might be slow on the coast, the parking will be difficult in some places, and things may not always go exactly to plan. But when you’re standing at the top of the Serpentine looking down at the Boka Bay, admiring the Black Lake or watching the pelicans glide over the lily pads of Lake Skadar, none of that will matter. You’re in the wild heart of the Balkans, and there is nowhere else quite like it.
