By Benoit Collin
Last updated: 2026-03-20
Once you land in Tirana, the first 2 things that need sorting are 1) getting a local SIM card and 2) withdrawing some LEKs.
Since Albania isn’t in the EU, your usual mobile plan probably won’t cover you without racking up some hefty roaming charges. The two main mobile providers (Vodafone and One) have stores right at the airport so it’s super easy to sort out before you hit the road (expect to pay ~26€ for unlimited minutes and 40 GB data). Alternatively, if your phone supports E-SIMs, you can look at offers from Airalo or Holafly but I don't have experience with these providers.
Cash is still king in Albania and the local currency is the LEK. While EUR is now widely accepted, I strongly suggest you withdraw enough LEK at the airport as you'll need them in remote mountain areas. ATMs often charge hefty fees (6-7€), so withdraw bigger amounts less often.
After picking up your car, direction the first stop: the town of Krujë.
Here, everything celebrates Skanderbeg, the hero of Albanian resistance against the Ottomans (keep this name in mind, he has an entire square to his name in Tirana). Take time to explore:
1) Depending on which road you're coming from, Google Maps might lead you to narrow cobblestone streets. The newer, wider road to Krujë’s historic center is Rruga Donika Kastrioti (Google Maps link)
2) Parking prices in central Krujë can vary widely and you'll be charged for the entire day in most cases (there is no hourly rate). Avoid the parking called "HysenPark Kruje" (Google Maps link), men will grossly overcharge you (1,000 LEK). Go to one of the following instead:
Continue your drive to the final destination of the day: Shkodra, the perfect getaway to your upcoming journey into the Albanian Alps.
Route: Shkodër → Koman → Fierze → Valbonë (via buses and ferry)
On day 2, get ready for a long but spectacular travel day (approx. 7–8 hours). You leave the car behind in Shkodra and take a shuttle to Koman around 06:30. Meeting point will be either in the Migjeni Theater area or Rozafa Hotel area depending on the operator you're going with. The ticket costs 8-10€.
You'll arrive in Koman just on time to board the 9.00AM ferry across Komani Lake to Fierze (10€). It is often described as one of the most scenic boat rides in the Balkans. The boat navigates a scenic reservoir, and the trip feels like sailing down a fjord, with steep, green cliffs plunging into the turquoise water.
Once arrived in Fierzë, a connecting bus will drop you at your Valbonë guesthouse. There’s no simple public bus timetable here, it’s usually minibus/van transfers timed to the ferry, often sold as part of the same ticketing ecosystem.
Valbonë is quiet. Expect guesthouse dinners, early nights, and a very “mountain valley” rhythm.
1) You can find all the prices and information on buses and ferries on the Komani Lake Ferry website.
2) Pack light! Bring only a small backpack with essentials for the next three days and leave your main luggage in the car back in Shkodra on a monitored parking or your hotel if they accept it.
3) For an additional fee (30€ instead of 10€), there is the possibility to make a detour at the Shala river before arriving in Fierzë using operators like Alpine Waterways.
4) Once arrived in Valbona, make sure your guesthouse can pack you a lunch for your hike the next day
5) Be honest with yourself about your fitness level. The hike the next day is a strenuous, full-day mountain hike, not a casual walk in the park. If that’s not realistic for your fitness level, you will be better driving from Shkodra to Theth as part of a day trip or 1-night stay to enjoy the scenery, the Blue Eye and / or a shorter day hike to the peak. If you want to cover all the highlights of Theth in a day and don't have a car or don't want to drive the mountain road, this small group tour is excellent!
This is the day that many people come to Albania for. The full-day hike from Valbona to Theth is, without exaggeration, one of Europe's great hikes and a true highlight of this trip. The trail is a key section of the much larger "Peaks of the Balkans" loop, a 192km route that crosses through Albania, Montenegro, and Kosovo.
The path takes you up and over the Valbona Pass, rewarding your efforts with absolutely breathtaking scenery. The effort is rewarded with a view along the Valbona Valley that is, simply put, spectacular. It’s a long, challenging day, but the payoff is immense.
After a full day of trekking, you'll descend into the peaceful village of Theth and check into a local guesthouse for a well-earned dinner and rest!
1) Start the hike as early as possible to avoid the midday sun and give yourself plenty of time. Expect a 5-7 hours hike (~18km) depending on your fitness level and breaks. Proper hiking boots are non-negotiable for this rocky and sometimes steep terrain.
2) The "start" in Valbonë involves a slog across a dried-up riverbed. Ask your guesthouse to book a 4x4 taxi (€10) to the actual trailhead to save your energy for the pass.
3) While there are a couple of small trailside cafes, they can be seasonal or have limited stock. It's far safer to be self-sufficient with at least 2 liters of water and high-energy snacks.
You can spend the morning hiking to the Blue Eye. You could walk all the way from Theth but it's mostly a dusty road walk. Instead, ask a local driver to drive you to Nderlysaj for about €5–€10. From there, you can hike the final 45 minutes through the beautiful forest section. You'll arrive to a vibrantly turquoise, ice-cold spring hidden in the forest.
I highly recommend you to make a stop at the Grunas waterfall on your way back if time allows. If you drove to Theth, you can park your car near this bridge, and from there it's an easy 30-minute detour that is well worth the extra effort!
Your transport, likely a 4x4 or minibus, will pick you up in Theth for the journey back down the mountains to Shkodra. Schedules vary by season and operator, but a common pattern is 2 departures from Theth back to Shkodra, often around 11:00 and 17:00. If you want a full day in Theth, you’re realistically aiming for the later transport, unless you start hiking very early and keep breaks short. Departure point is usually by the Mini Market Jezerca.
Book your return transport from Theth to Shkodra well in advance, especially in high season, as seats fill up quickly. The trip cost ~12€ and you can also book it on the Komani Lake Ferry website. Alternatively, you'll find other operators online offering the same service.
Take a short drive to the village of Shiroka, the best access point for Lake Shkodra. This is the biggest lake in the Balkans, with the border with Montenegro running right through the middle of it. The Albanian side, especially around Shiroka, gives you a wonderful sense of its scale and tranquility. This kayak tour on the lake will give you access to a protected nature reserve where the lake is covered with water lilies. Only 20 people are allowed in the reserve each day and it's really a unique experience!
You can enjoy a fresh, traditional lunch at a lakeside restaurant in Shiroka (the local dish is the tavë krapi, a carp casserole with onions and walnut sauce) and walk the lakeside promenade. It's a perfect way to spend the afternoon!
You can end the day either enjoying a sunset from Rozafa Castle, strolling the center of Shkodra or hitting the road direction the next stop: Berat. The drive from Shkodra to Berat is fairly long (~3 hours), so if you decide to spend a full day around Shkodra, I'd recommend to spend a final night there and leave early morning the next day.
Berat is a UNESCO World Heritage site known as the "City of a Thousand Windows" for its beautiful Ottoman-era architecture. The charm lies in its two old neighbourhoods, Mangalem and Gorica, sitting across from each other on either side of the Osum River, each with its own unique vibe and history.
Your day will mostly consist in getting lost in the maze of narrow cobblestone lanes that wind through Mangalem and Gorica and crossing the bridges chasing different angles for postcard-worthy views.
Towards the end of the day, make your way up to the dramatic Berat castle that crowns the hill. You'll get unbeatable views over Gorica and the new part of town at sunset. This is not just “ruins on a hill.” It’s a lived-in neighborhood inside castle walls with homes, small cafés, museums and viewpoints.
1) Wear comfortable, sturdy shoes. The cobblestone streets in Berat's old town are beautiful but can be extremely steep and slick
2) The walk from the town center up to the castle is extremely steep (20–30min). If you have heavy luggage or low fitness, pay for a taxi (~€5). Your knees will thank you!
3) I do not recommend getting an accommodation inside the Berat castle as driving up there is a total nightmare (slippery cobblestones on steep incline). Only local taxis have mastered driving in these streets! Additionally, avoid driving into the historic lanes as they can be extremely narrow. You're better sticking to the main road (Rruga Antipatrea) and park alongside it
4) Hospitality is usually excellent in Berat, and the food is real Albanian home-style. You'll find multiple highly-rated restaurants serving traditional food. Just make sure to make reservation in advance as some are very popular
The area around Berat is one of the best in Albania for winery visits, producing superb wines from native grapes that are well worth seeking out.
I recommending heading into the surrounding verdant valleys for a taste of rural Albania and visiting the small village of Roshnik, 30min drive away from Berat.
You'll find vineyards, olive groves, and traditional stone architecture with the majestic Mount Tomorr in the background. But the absolute highlight of a day in Roshnik is to join a traditional cooking class followed by a wine tasting at a local family-run winery. It’s an authentic and delicious way to connect with the region’s rich agricultural heritage and you'll experience true Albanian hospitality!
Albanian are generous when it comes to wine tasting and chances are you'll also be offered rakia, the traditional fruit spirit. I would highly recommend hiring a taxi or finding an accommodation in Roshnik for the night unless you’re genuinely limiting alcohol or have one person stay sober. Please note that Albania enforces a near-zero tolerance policy for alcohol and driving, with a maximum legal blood alcohol content of 0.01%, one of the strictest in Europe.
Today, you're exploring the rugged natural beauty of the region around Berat. A popular day trip takes you to the nearby Bogova Waterfall for a (very!) refreshing swim and to the Osumi Canyon, a spectacular river gorge that you can hike through in summer. Now, a couple of notes:
1) Leave Berat early, ideally by 8:00 AM. This allows you to reach the Bogovë waterfall before the largest tour buses arrive (usually around 11:00 AM)
2) You'll pass multiple viewpoints along the road offering panoramic views over the canyon. The most popular ones include these 2 platforms (here and here) and this bridge.
3) If you're exploring the canyon on foot, water shoes are non-negotiable. The riverbed is full of sharp and slippery stones. A dry bag will also be very useful to carry your phone, money or anything you want to take with you
4) Why would you want to take money with you in the canyon? Because you have the possibility to have lunch at this restaurant in the middle of the canyon! They can serve grilled meats, vegetables, salad, cheeses, breads, fresh beers, etc., all served with the best Albanian hospitality
Leave early in the morning, it’s time to head for the coast! This drive is absolutely amazing, taking you through wide open green valleys and culminating in the breathtaking Llogara Pass. This zigzagging route is one of Europe's most dramatic drives, offering spectacular views as it descends towards the Ionian Sea.
The Llogara tunnel opened in 2025 and now slashes travel time through the mountains from 40 minutes down to just 5 minutes. Your GPS might try to steer you away from this mountain pass because it adds a bit of extra time. So if you want to drive through the mountain pass, make sure to manually adjust the route.
Keep driving for 15 min after the pass and you'll reach the beautiful old village of Dhërmi. Perched on the hill, this well-maintained old town is full of cobblestone alleys and white-washed stone houses. It's definitely worth a 1-hour stop to climb to the Monastery of St. Mary at the very top of the village for another amazing view of the coast.
Your next stop on the Riviera is the famous Gjipe beach. This beautiful cove still has an undiscovered feel (although it's no longer a secret), largely because you can't drive directly to it. You have to park your car 20-30 minute away and be prepared for a hike down a rocky path to reach the pebbly shore. You'll probably regret the walk back up when arrive at your car drenched in sweat, but it's worth every step!
1) Most people drive to a designated parking lot near the Monastery of St. Theodore ("Gjipe Beach Parking" on Google Maps). Expect to pay 400 LEK for parking. From there, it is a hike down a rocky, unshaded red-dirt path. The trail's uneven with all sorts of stones, so I highly recommend wearing sturdy sneakers
2) The road leading to the parking is well-paved but a single-track route. There are a few pull-off spots are few but they’re quite spread out. You might need to reverse to let others through. Alternatively, you can park on a small lot alongside the main SH8 road but the hike to the beach will be much longer
3) If you don't feel like hiking, nearby beaches like Dhërmi beach or Jala beach offer direct road access (but expect more crowds)
After your first afternoon on the beach, continue your drive south and check into your accommodation in the lovely coastal town of Himarë for the night.
Route: Himarë → Porto Palermo → Borsh/Buneci → Sarandë
If you’re anything like me and prefer places that aren’t swamped with giant resorts, Himarë will probably hit the sweet spot for you too. Besides, the beaches around here are actually great and you’ll find plenty that aren’t completely taken over by private beach clubs like in the South. I'm not the type of traveller who likes spending an entire day at the beach which means this day includes a balanced mix of driving, exploration and down time at the beach. Instead, feel free to take a well-deserved break at one of the nearby beaches after 9 days spent on the road!
After exploring Himarë, continue your journey south along the stunning coastal road. Your first stop is the bay of Porto Palermo, dominated by an imposing triangular castle. The interior is mostly empty stone rooms but the roof will provide beautiful views over the bay and the nearby abandoned submarine tunnel (visible to the north).
Located 15min drive away from Porto Palermo, Borsh beach is longest beach on the Albanian Riviera (~7km long). Because it's so vast, you’ll see both free zones and paid setups managed by beach clubs so you can pick what's best for you. Borsh is significantly cheaper than its neighbors further South. You can find a set of sunbeds from 10€-15€, compared to 30€+ in Ksamil. Keep in mind Borsh beach is made entirely of pebbles, which means water shoes will make getting in and out of the water much easier and less painful.
Another slightly quieter option would be Buneci beach a bit further South between the villages of Lukovë and Piqeras.
Finally, your drive along this stunning section of the Riviera concludes as you arrive in the bustling city of Sarandë.
Note: if you have time on your way to Sarandë, I'd highly recommend you to stop in the small village of Lukovë. The region is the heart of the "Kalinjot" olive, making the oil peppery, high in polyphenols, and world-class. I made a stop at this small producer for a tasting and some explanation on what makes an award-winning olive oil. The passion of the owner Milto is infectious and you'll leave with a deeper appreciation for the craft behind great olive oil, and a much higher standard the next time you’re in a supermarket aisle!
It's important to manage expectations in Sarandë: the town is a large, commercially developed beach resort town and cruise ship stop. It is a concrete jungle compared to Himarë and I was instantly put off by the overly commercial vibe. That said, some of you might still be drawn to it for the lively nightlife and cheaper prices compared to Ksamil further South.
A popular day trip from Sarandë consists in visiting Butrint National Park in the morning and exploring the numerous beaches around Ksamil in the afternoon.
Butrint National Park is widely considered as the country’s most important archaeological sites and has even gained the status of a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The site features Greek, Roman, Byzantine, and Venetian ruins in a swampy, shaded forest. I highly recommend visiting early morning at the opening (8.30-9AM) to enjoy the site without the crowds coming by ferry from Corfu and bus from Sarandë.
Cost | 10€ entrance fee
Now, let's talk about Ksamil, the "European Maldives". Chances are you first considered visiting Albania after seeing a dreamy sandy beach picture with electric-blue water located in Ksamil on social media. I hate to break it to you, but this is one of those moments where what you’re hoping for and what you actually get don’t quite line up. Expectation meets a bit of a reality check here:
You get the picture. If it's a peaceful swimming experience with the sound of the waves you're after, I strongly suggest you reconsider. That said, the area around Ksamil offers some of the most stunning beaches in the country if you're willing to accept the crowds that come with them. Popular ones include Mirror beach (also called Plazhi i Pasqyrave), Shpella e Pëllumbave and Pulëbardhës Beach.
1) Parking in Ksamil can be a total nightmare. You will likely pay 500–1,000 LEK for a dusty lot. Do not park illegally because the police in Ksamil are very active with towing and fines for tourists. The parking situation in Sarandë is very similar and it will be almost impossible to find a free parking spot in summer. Book an accommodation with guaranteed parking if you can
2) The road between Sarandë and Ksamil (SH81) is a single lane. From 5:00 PM, the beach exodus turns the 20-minute drive back to Sarandë into a 60-minute crawl
3) To reach the different beaches mentioned above, you’ll need to turn off the main road and navigate some smaller, unpaved lanes. The parking areas aren’t the easiest either so if you’re a bit of a nervous driver, it might feel a little stressful
Today you leave the coast behind and head inland towards the famous Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër), a stunning natural phenomenon. This deep karst hole is a spring where water bubbles up from deep within the earth. The result is a pool of water that shines a hypnotic bright blue in the sun.
I have to admit I was very surprised to see a giant car park full of cars on arrival. While the Blue Eye is undeniably stunning, the site is now a highly commercialized "nature park" with restaurants, shops, electric scooters and a tourist train. Don't expect a wild nature experience.
From there, continue your drive to the beautiful city of Gjirokastër. Also called the "Stone City", this UNESCO World Heritage site is known for its unique Ottoman tower houses (kulla) and silver-colored limestone streets. Places you should not miss include:
1) Gjirokastër is built on a very steep slope. You will be walking uphill on extremely slippery limestone. If it rains, the streets become a skating rink. Wear shoes with serious grip
2) Do not drive into the Old Town around the Old Bazaar. Some streets are barely wide enough for a car and very steep as mentioned above. Park at the bottom near the newer part of town (around the stadium) and walk or take a taxi up
3) The Old Bazaar is beautiful but heavily tourist-ified. Many "handmade" rugs and souvenirs are actually imported. For authentic crafts, look for the wood- or stone-carving shops in the adjacent streets
Depending on how much you've been able to explore the day prior, you might want to spend the morning in Gjirokastër. The final leg of this road trip takes you back to where it all began: the dynamic, ever-changing capital of Tirana, for a final day of exploration before heading home. This is the longest drive of the trip and takes ~4 hours.
Located mid-way through the drive, Apollonia Archaeological Park makes the perfect stop to spread your legs and explore this ruined city that once a major center of learning and culture. Depending on how many breaks you take, you might just arrive on time to enjoy a sunset from the top of the Pyramid of Tirana, followed by a lively evening in the Blloku district.
Driving into Tirana is the least enjoyable part of the road trip due to the constant heavy city traffic. It can be a stressful experience even for the most confident drivers. Since you'll be leaving the car parked in the city center anyway (Tirana is a very walkable city), bringing back the car to the rental agency before entering central Tirana could be a sensible option.
I have to say I was positively surprised by Tirana. I was expecting an average city with communist-era architecture but instead I found a highly cosmopolitan and vibrant city, with an eccentric and unique blend of architecture styles.
If you only have one day left to explore the capital before flying back home, I'd focus on the following:
A road trip through Albania is an unforgettable journey through a land of incredible diversity. In just over two weeks, you can experience the dramatic peaks of the Alps, the idyllic shores of the Riviera, and the layered histories of its ancient cities. That contrast is the country's magic.
The country is safe, the people are warm, and it feels like a nation in the middle of a well-deserved renaissance. Things may not always go exactly to plan and you might experience some chaos along the way but if you come with an open mind and embrace the adventure, you will be rewarded with incredible experiences and the genuine, welcoming hospitality of the Albanian people.
